¿Como se dice "chicken head"?

The metro doors whoosh open and a gust of chilled, seaside air sinks into my bones. A Chilean schoolgirl perched on the edge exits the bus, which hardly even slows down, with a nimble hop. Another whoosh and we lurch forward, weaving around cars half the size containing drivers three times as aggressive. Ahead, candy-colored houses spill down the mountainside like a handful of rainbow dice tossed by a flamboyant street magician.

A heavy fog to the west presses against the coast. Buenas días, Valparaíso.

Today is day three of 144 in Chile and I have a lot to learn, including the entirety of the Spanish language. But while I’m still just starting out with my first foray into South America, I like to think I’ve grown pretty street savvy in Valpo and its sister city, Viña del Mar. You know what they say- three days are (hardly, but still) better than none. So without further ado, I present the following lessons I have learned thus far as a white girl abroad.

“Bus stop” is a generous term. “Slight bus deceleration” or “Bus maybe-we’ll-pause-oh-wait-no-guess-not” would be more accurate. Also, if you ever find yourself on a Santiago subway, it’s good to know that the bus doors close regardless of your position between them, lest you perform a perfect reenactment of Eddard Stark on the High Septon steps. Seriously. Hustle through that door.

Treat your passport like your firstborn. Or, if you’re like my friend, you can make a copy of your passport at home, accidentally leave it in the scanner, and find yourself at the airport sans necessary documentation and pushed to a flight two days after your intended departure date. Spoiler alert: the friend is me. I now pronounce you traveler and passport, to have and to hold, to love and to cherish.

“Cabeza pollo” means “chicken head.” Refer above to gather how I learned this from my host family. No, it is not a compliment.

Put down your phone. And your tablet. Even your camera. You can Google pictures of the amazing, goosebump-inducing view that’s right in front of you any time from your La-Z-Boy. You are, after many tribulations and reciprocity fees, actually here. Breathe the air. Ignore your electronics. Be present.